INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE TURNER CAR BRAKE KIT
WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS!!!
BEFORE YOU START, LOOK AT THE PRE-ASSEMBLED PARTS TO FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THE LOCATION OF EACH PIECE AND PART! AND BE SURE TO READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY! AS YOUR SAFETY DEPENDS ON THE PROPER INSTALLATION OF THIS BRAKE KIT!
TO INSURE PROPER BRAKING WITH THIS KIT, A POWER BOOSTER SHOULD BE USED! IF A POWER BOOSTER IS NOT USED. However, with the addition of the disc brakes, you will most likely not notice it.
This kit was designed especially for the Studebaker Avanti, however since Studebaker used the same passenger car spindles from 1953-1966, and Avanti motors used the same spindles as Studebaker thru 1984 this kit is compatible with all. This kit will also work on other models along with the Avanti 2, however Studebaker changed from 4-1/2" x 15" wheels to 5-1/2" wheels on the Avanti. Therefore, if this kit is used on anything other than an Avanti you may have to use 5- 1/2" x 15" wheels or the new caliper may not clear the wheel!
*IMPORTANT* READ THIS SECTION ON NON-AVANTI INSTALLATIONS!!
IF THIS KIT IS USED ON ANYTHING OTHER THAN AN AVANTI, THE MASTER CYLINDER MUST BE DISASSEMBLED AND THE RESIDUAL CHECK VALVE DEFEATED. THIS MUST BE DONE! OTHERWISE, BRAKE LINE PRESSURE WILL CONTINUE TO BUILD UP AND EVENTUALLY LOCK UP THE FRONT BRAKES. TO DEFEAT THE RESIDUAL CHECK VALVE, (REFER TO THE SHOP MANUAL FOR LOCATION) EITHER REMOVE THE VALVE ALTOGETHER OR PUNCH A SMALL HOLE IN IT TO DEFEAT ITS PURPOSE! IT MAY ALSO BE NECESSARY TO INSTALL A 2# RESIDUAL CHECK VALVE IN THE FRONT LINE AND 10# CHECK VALVE IN THE REAR LINE. IT MAY ALSO BE NECESSARY TO USE LATER STUDEBAKER BEARINGS (A-2, A-6 GROUP)
Remove the stock Avanti/Studebaker brake parts as per the Avanti/Studebaker shop manual· be sure to also remove the stock caliper mounting brackets and dust shields.
CLEAN AND INSPECT THE STOCK STUDEBAKER SPINDLES
CHECK THE ENCLOSED PARTS LIST AND BE SURE YOU RECEIVED ALL THE PARTS
In the kit you will see (2) cup-like machined sleeves. These are called grease seal track adapters. The purposes of these are to 1) space the rotor out to the proper location on the spindle and 2) Provide a machined surface for the grease seal lo ride. This sleeve is purposely-machined .002" undersize to the thick part of the spindle so when heated, it will expand to slide over the spindle and butt up solid against the face of the spindle. When the sleeve cools, it will shrink fit on to the spindle.
TO INSTALL THE GREASE SEAL TRACK ADAPTERS, A WELDING OR BUTANE TORCH MUST BE USED! DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL THIS PART WITHOUT HEATING IT UP!
Using a butane or welding torch, and a pair of channel lock pliers, heat up one of the grease seal track adapters, RED HOT, and slide it over the spindle. To make sure that the grease seal track adapter is properly seated up against the spindle flange, use a small piece of pipe and a hammer and GENTLY TAP on the face of the adapter to make sure that it butts up solid against the spindle flange. Repeat the same procedure for the other side.
BE SURE TO GENTLY TAP THE ADAPTER, DO NOT BEAT IT ON!
FIGURE 1 WITHOUT TRACK ADAPTER, FIGURE 1B, WITH TRACK ADAPTER
Now install the caliper mounting brackets. (these are also marked (LEFT AND RIGHT) to the inside of the caliper mounting adapter brackets using 2 1/2 x 1 1/4 bolts and 2 lock washers along with red Loctite and TORQUE THESE BOLTS TO 75-80 FT. LBS. This needs to be done BEFORE going on to the next step!
Next install the caliper-mounting bracket (the thick-machined bracket with the (4) standoff spacers on it); these brackets are marked (LEFT & RIGHT)! These brackets are mounted to the inside of the spindle flange (toward the engine) by using the back (3) holes on the spindle flange and the upper front hole on the spindle flange.
To install this bracket. use (4) 3/8 x 1 1/4 hex head bolts along with lock washers. BE SURE TO USE RED LOCTITE ALONG WITH THE LOCK WASHERS AND TORQUE ALL THESE BOLTS TO 45-50 FT. LBS. Repeat the above step for the other side. After you have finished mounting these brackets, be sure that the caliper win be in back of the spindle, not in front as originally installed on the Studebakers. (SEE FIGURE 2),
The new Ford rotors use the same wheel bearing as the Studebaker. The bolt pattern is also the same. However THE FORD GREASE SEAL MUST BE USED. Ford Part # C8AZ-1190-A or an aftermarket seal #6815
Now take a look at the G.M. caliper on the bottom caliper under the piston housing- there is a casting tab hanging down. This tab has no structural function whatsoever, and for the caliper to clear the caliper-mounting bracket, this tab must be removed. A belt sander works best to remove this tab, however a small hand-held grinder or an electric drill with a grinding disk can also be used. Be sure that the caliper clears the mounting bracket. DO NOT INSTALL THE CALIPERS AT THIS TIME!! Use of the 1999 S- 10 4 X 4 caliper eliminates this step! OEM# 18-4129. 18-4129
Now install the Ford rotors (Ford part #C8OZ-1102-A) or the aftermarket R-M rotors (R-M # 6006) The only difference is the price. These rotors are from 1968 -1969 Mustangs or Cougars. BE SURE TO ADJUST THE WHEEL BEARINGS PER THE STUDEBAKER SHOP MANUAL.
It may be necessary to use 2 axle nut washers to obtain the proper wheel nut bearing adjustment. If experience a problem with the grease dust caps, try using the Mustang/Cougar caps. OR the stock Studebaker caps (Lark Type) – they seem to be deeper than the new aftermarket caps.
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Before installing the disk brake pads, you will notice that on the two stock G.M. inner pads. a small piece of metal riveted to one end. This is the early warning wear indicator. This "tab" should clear the caliper bracket without any problem.
Now the calipers and brake pads are ready for installation on the vehicle, BE SURE THAT THE CALIPER MOUNTING PINS ARE FOUR INCHES LONG FROM THE END OF THE PIN TO JUST UNDER THE HEAD.
GENERAL MOTORS MAKES A NUMBER OF DIFFERENT SIZES FOR DIFFERENT APPLICATIONS!! THE CORRECT PART NUMBER IS 5468226. BE SURE THESE PINS ARE FOUR (4) INCHES LONG TO THE HEAD OF THE PIN OR 4 1/2 INCHES IN TOTAL LENGTH!!
When mounting the calipers, be sure to use the LEFT caliper on the LEFT side and the RIGHT caliper on the RIGHT side. BE SURE THAT THE BLEEDER SCREWS ARE ON THE TOP OF THE CALIPER. The driver's side of the vehicle is the left side, and the passenger side is the right side.
Before installing the calipers on the brackets, be sure to install the brake lines (Wagner #BH38160). This hose is approximately 16 inches long. It is no longer necessary to start the banjo bolt in the caliper before installing it. This has been eliminated utilizing the S-10 4X4 calipers.
We here at TURNER BRAKE have strived to create the best product along with the ease of installation as best we can. However, we cannot install each and every kit on a vehicle prior to delivery, so if you or your mechanic does run into a problem, PLEASE let us know, so we can look into it, as we are constantly trying to improve our design.
To ENSURE YOUR SAFETY, we suggest after the first 1000 miles, you should pull one or both sides apart and inspect the spindles and bearings for abnormal wear patterns. DO NOT REMOVE THE GREASE SEAL TRACK ADAPTERS.
THIS STEP IS FOR NON AVANTI INSTALLATIONS ONLY!
HOW TO REMOVE A RESIDUAL VALVE FROM A MASTER CYLINDER
1. Master cylinders used in trailer Hydraulic surge brake couplers are available either fitted with a residual valve (check valve), or without the residual valve in place. If a trailer braking system uses drum brakes the master cylinder should be equipped with a residual valve. This check valve maintains approximately 10# to 15# of hydraulic pressure (priming pressure) on the hydraulic circuit, from the master cylinder out to the drum brake wheel cylinders. This reduces the time of brake activation, by overcoming the pressure created by the drum brake return spring.
2. If , however the trailer is to be equipped with DISC Brakes the 10# to 15# pressure created by the residual valve will partially activate the disc brakes, during highway travel , causing brake overheating and failure.
3. If the master cylinder is equipped with a residual valve it will be necessary to remove the residual valve to eliminate it's hydraulic effect on the disc brakes.
WARNING: Puncturing the residual valve can damage components internal to the master cylinder, and should not be attempted.
4. To remove the residual valve, proceed as follows. As per the drawing below, remove the rubber dust boot exposing the Snap Ring. Compress the snap ring and remove. Be aware that the return spring is under compression and upon removal of the snap ring, the piston may shoot out of the cylinder. You should use some counter acting force to retard this problem. Upon removal of the snap ring, remove the piston, and the return spring. As the return spring is removed you will find the Residual valve inserted into, and thereby affixed to the return spring. Snap the Residual valve out of the return spring, then reassemble the remaining components in the reverse order from disassembly. Note that there is a thick rubber washer in the far end of the master cylinder tube that probably did not come out when the other components were disassembled. This is the washer that the residual valve previously sealed against. It is important that this washer be left in place in the master cylinder. Because of it’s thickness it will provide proper spacing for the length of the return spring to properly operate with the new disc brake assembly.
5. Now, upon final assembly you can use the master cylinder with your disc brake system.
Helpful Tips:
• Be sure to torque ALL the bolts, they are only hand tight when I ship them out!
• Do not try to rush assembly of this kit! YOUR life depends on Proper installation of this kit.
• All of the "wearable" parts are common off the shelf parts, available in almost all parts stores.
• Should you have any questions, please call AFTER 7 PM Eastern time. If you call before, leave a number where you can be reached AFTER 7 PM eastern time, as I run a large collision center for a large dealer in town.
• I try to make some of the bigger swap meets. Stop by my booth and say HI!
• Stock Studebaker NON disc brake wheels will not clear the caliper, I recommend NEW wheels from Bob Ziff (215) 428-9500
• Brake fluid, I have used silicone fluid (DOT 5) in my ‘52 Commander, with NO "ill" effects. My ‘63 Avanti has regular (DOT 3) in it. Both works fine. BUT if you change to DOT 5, FLUSH the complete system out with alcohol! Better yet, rebuild and / or replace all the wheels, cylinders, hoses, and master cylinder!
• Be sure to CHECK ALL you steel lines for signs of rust! They are at least 40 years old!
• It is “recommended” that brake hoses be replaced every 3-5 years. I’m not sure I agree 100% with that, but….
TURNER BRAKE
WARRANTY
This brake kit utilizes, stock American made, modern brake parts from a major automobile manufacturer.
This kit is designed to adapt these modern parts to the stock Studebaker spindles, without any permanent modifications to the spindle. The finest quality parts have been assembled for this kit. All of the bolts, lock washers, and lock nuts are of grade 8 aircraft quality, NOTHING LESS WILL DO!
The stock Studebaker caliper-mounting adapter is held on by 3 3/8 x 1 3/4 grade 5 bolts with lock washers. This kit utilizes 4, 3/8 x 1 3/4 grade 8 bolts, with lock washers and lock nuts.
BE SURE TO USE RED LOCTITE ALONG WITH THE LOCK WASHERS AND LOCK NUTS!
Also included in this kit are the proper torque specifications for each set of bolts,
THESE MUST ALSO BE USED!! A competent professional mechanic should install this kit. THE PURCHASER IS RESPONSIBLE FOR PROPER INSTALLATION OF THIS PRODUCT.
LIMITED WARRANTY
TURNER BRAKE, and it's affiliates, warrants to the original purchaser that it's product shall be free from defects in materials and workmanship for a period of ninety (90) days from the date of original purchase. All claims shall be made by returning the product; FREIGHT PRE-PAID, with proof of purchase to TURNER BRAKE.
If found to be defective in material or workmanship upon inspection, TURNER BRAKE will repair or replace the defective product. In no event shall this warranty exceed the original purchase price of this product.
This warranty shall not apply to products subjected to accident, negligence, alteration, abuse, misuse, racing purposes, improper installation, or unsuited uses. Furthermore, TURNER BRAKE shall not be liable for any consequential, special or contingent damages or injury arising directly or indirectly from any defect in its goods or from use of goods, defective or not.
TURNER BRAKE'S only obligation will be to repair or replace material defects proven to be defective; neither seller nor manufacturer will be liable for any loss, injury, or consequential damages, arising from use or inability to use this product.