Installation Instructions for Early 4 Bolt Cars

THIS KIT WAS DESIGNED FOR STUDEBAKERS WITH A 4 BOLT LUG PATTERN

When all else fails, read these instructions!!!

 

Before you start, look at the pre-assembled parts to familiarize yourself with the location of each piece and part! Be sure to read these instructions carefully as your safety depends on the proper installation of this brake kit! If a power booster is not used, you may experience a harder brake pedal, however, with the addition of the disc brakes, you will most likely not notice it.

 

We have strived to put together a kit that will improve the braking of your vehicle, while maintaining a stock looking vehicle. We have also worked to use stock off the shelf parts. However, on the kit, the rotors need to be modified. They are bolted on the backside of the stock hubs, and the center hole needs to be larger. We have also re-drilled the rotors for the 4 on 4 bolt pattern.
 

•• IMPORTANT •• READ THIS SECTION ON ALL INSTALLATIONS!

 

If you are not converting to a dual master cylinder, the stock master cylinder must be disassembled, and the residual check valve defeated. This must be done! Otherwise, brake line pressure will continue to build up and eventually lock up the front brakes. To defeat the residual check valve, (refer to the shop manual for location) either remove the valve altogether or punch a small hole in it to defeat its purpose! It is necessary to install a 2# residual check valve in the front line and 10# check valve in the rear line.
 

Remove the stock Studebaker brake parts as er the Studebaker shop manual; be sure to also remove the stock backing plates.

 

CLEAN AND INSPECT THE STOCK STUDEBAKER SPINDLES

 

CHECK THE ENCLOSED PARTS LIST AND BE SURE YOU RECEIVED ALL THE PARTS.

 

CLEAN AND INSPECT THE STOCK STUDEBAKER SPINDLES

Check the enclosed parts list and be sure you received all the parts.

 

1939-1951 STUDEBAKER CHAMPIONS 4 BOLT LUG PATTERN DELUXE BRAKE KIT PACKING LIST

 

(1) LEFT CALIPER MOUNTING ADAPTER
(1) RIGHT CALIPER MOUNTING ADAPTER
(1) LEFT CALIPER MOUNTING BRACKET
(1) RIGHT CALIPER MOUNTING BRACKET
(6) 3/8 x 1 1/4 GRADE 8 HEX HEAD BOLTS*
(12) 3/8 LOCK WASHERS
(6) 3/8 24 LOCKNUTS

(4) 1/2 LOCK WASHERS
(1) REBUILT LEFT CALIPER ASSEMBLY, LOADED
(1) REBUILT RIGHT CALIPER ASSEMBLY, LOADED
(2) BRAKE HOSES
(2) NEW MODIFIED ROTORS
(8) WHEEL STUDS
(1) SET COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS
(4) 12 MM GRADE 8 HEX HEAD BOLTS*

NOTE, EVEN THOUGH LOCK WASHERS ARE PROVIDED IN THIS BRAKE KIT, WE HIGHLY RECOMMEND THE USE OF RED LOCTITE ON ALL BOLTS!

Begin by removing the drum from the hub and bearing. DO NOT BEAT OUT THE STUDS!

If you beat out the studs, you will most likely destroy the Brake Drum and Hub! Cut or grind the studs far enough until you can "tap” them out with a punch and hammer. Be sure to wear proper eye and safety protection.

Once the hub has been removed from the drum, you are ready to install the caliper mount bracket using the 3 3/8-24x1/14 Grade 8 bolts, lock washers, and lock nuts. FOR PROPER CLEARENCE YOU MUST ALSO INSTALL A LOCK WASHER BETWEEN THE SPINDLE AND BRACKET.  (SEE FIGURE 1),

Once the Brackets are installed, be sure to also use Red Loctite on all the bolts, and torque them to 45-50 FT LBS

 

Now, press the new studs into the BACKSIDE of the rotor. DO NOT BEAT THEM IN! You WILL Crack the rotor! Pack the bearings per the Studebaker shop manual and install the rotors. Be sure that there are no clearance issues with the brackets spindles, and rotors.

 

Next, separate the caliper from the caliper adapter bracket. Again, using the enclosed flat washers, install one (or two) washer between the caliper bracket and the caliper mount bracket. (See Figure 2)

 

You want to make sure there is clearance on BOTH sides of the caliper bracket.

Using the included (4) 12x30 x 1.25mm Caliper to Bracket bolts, along with Red Loctite tighten these bolts to FT LBS of torque. You must use the supplied bolts, along with 2-3 drops of RED LOCTITE! Lay the pads into the caliper adapter bracket. BE SURE TO INSTALL THE WIRE SPRINGS and install the caliper and tighten the 2 bolts to 37 FT LBS of torque. Be sure to install the calipers so that the bleeder is at the TOP of the caliper. This MAY require using the RIGHT caliper on the LEFT side, and the LEFT caliper on the RIGHT side. Install the supplied brake hoses, and be sure to use the 4 copper sealing washers, (2 per side). Be sure to torque the Banjo Bolts to 25 FT LBS. Then, properly bleed the brakes per the Studebaker shop manual.

** IMPORTANT ** READ THIS SECTION ON ALL INSTALLATIONS!

If YOU ARE NOT CONVERTING TO A DUAL MASTER CYLINDER, THE STOCK MASTER CYLINDER MUST BE DISASSEMBLED, AND THE RESIDUAL CHECK VALVE DEFEATED. THIS MUST BE DONE! OTHERWISE, BRAKE LINE PRESSURE WILL CONTINUE TO BUILD UP AND EVENTUALLY LOCK UP THE FRONT BRAKES. TO DEFEAT THE RESIDUAL CHECK VALVE, (REFER TO THE SHOP MANUAL FOR LOCATION) EITHER REMOVE THE VALVE ALTOGETHER OR PUNCH A SMALL HOLE IN IT TO DEFEAT ITS PURPOSE! IT IS NECESSARY TO INSTALL A 2# RESIDUAL CHECK VALVE IN THE FRONT LINE AND 10# CHECK VALVE IN THE REAR LINE.

 

Once you have bled the brakes, and have checked for leaks and corrected any that you may encounter, install the wheels and tires, and again torque them to the factory specs. Take your vehicle on a test drive. Start at slower speeds and work UP-to higher speeds. Once YOU are satisfied that they are good to go, re-check all connections for leaks.

 

We at TURNER BRAKE recommend that after 500 miles, pull the front wheels and re-torque ALL the bolts. This will ensure your safety.

 

Enjoy driving your Studebaker with the finest disc brake kit available! We have been manufacturing disc brake kits since 1983! Originally for the Avanti, and other Studebaker Disc Brake cars, our product line has grown tremendously in the last 35 years. We now manufacture ALL of our own brake hoses, including DOT approved, braided stainless steel, Braided stainless oil lines, early car Power Steering Hoses, with the correct fittings. And, we now carry wheel cylinders for various Studebaker models.